What’s in a name: the muddled history of Zinfandel
Zinfandel: the international varietal of mystery. This American loved wine has been wrapped in controversy since debaters brought the origin of its name to the floor. For years, California and Italian wine producers have argued over the usage of a the title Zinfandel. When the European Union granted Italian wine growers the use of the term “Zinfandel” in 1999, a crowd of California wineries raised their voices in protest. What’s the big deal? Well, looking back on the history of Zinfandel in the United States reveals the intimate relationship the country shares with the name.
In 1857 a man named Joe Osborne allegedly produced the first official California Zinfandel north of Napa Valley thus spurring the Western Zin boom. Following Osborne’s lead, more wine producers bought up “old vines” around the state and released some of this country’s most treasured wines. Proud of its robust flavors entwined with spice and berry, Californians soon proclaimed the fruit theirs. But, the true origin of the Zinfandel variety was essentially unknown due the sheer impossibility of following a detailed history of the travel of goods during a time when hordes of people were in transition from Europe to America and from the American East Coast to the West. Suspicions started when people learned the variety actually arrived from the East Coast with William Robert Prince during the Gold Rush. Prince is believed to have acquired a variety he called “Black Zinfandel of Hungary,” from the Imperial Nursery in Vienna, Austria. Thus, the Zinfandel grape may have actually traveled across seas to American soil. This theory certainly interested Europe and wine makers and the Zinfandel grape approached the stage of international controversy. Thus began the hunt for the truth; the vrai origine of the Zinfandel variety.
First stop: Italy. The Italian wine country was naturally the first scene investigated in the search for truth. Why? Well, In the boot of Italy, Italian wine makers produced a wine very similar to the delightfully spicy Californian Zinfandel called Primitivo. Before the mid 20th century, the wine community accepted Zinfandel as the American wine. But, in 1967, UCD professor, Austin Goheen, burst that bubble when he tasted the Primitivo wine made in Italy. Noticing clear similarities, Goheen returned to California with the Primitivo variety where grapevine geneticists probed the plant. In the end, they found the two genetically compatible and thus of the same variety.
The uproar ensued shortly thereafter and the race was on to outline the history of Zin. Over ten years after discovering the genetic link between Primitivo and Zinfandel, Professor Goheen began tracing the Primitivo genes to lands beyond Italy. Turning attention to Croatia after a few suggestions from friends, he first investigated the Croatian variety, Plavac Mali in 1982. While his tests concluded the two shared similarities but not the same gene pool, his trespass into Croatian territory sparked interest among some local wine makers such as Mike Grgich, who formed the “Zinfandel Advocates and Producers,”(ZAP) to prolong the theory that their Plavac Mali was the true parent of Primitivo and thus of Zinfandel.
Although ZAP never found enough evidence to support the original Plavac Mali theory they did open the floodgates for other theories. Another UCD professor, Carole Meredith, accepted a grant from ZAP to study samples of the Plavac Mali from the coast of Croatia against Primitivo and Zinfandel. In the early to late 90s she gradually released her findings to the world. First, she concluded that Primitivo and Zinfandel did indeed stem from the same variety with only subtle differences due to soil changes between the two countries. Much to the dismay of ZAP, Meredith and her team of experts declared Plavac Mali, unlike Primitivo, was not of the same variety as Zinfandel. Instead, she instigated shock when she declared that the Croatian variety was actually the long lost infant of Zinfandel and Primitivo. Years ago, before the world underwent debates of variety significance, Primitivo/Zinfandel and another attractive but ancient variety from the island Šolta, Dobricic, got together. The result was the Plavac Mali variety which presumably traveled from Greece or Albania to the Croatian Coast.
After reuniting Plavac Mali temporarily with its parent varietal, Meredith believed her discovery warranted a further investigation into the Croatian coast. Using DNA profiling, the geneticist finally found her long sought answer: the Dalmatian varietal Crljenak Kaštelanski. Studies proved this Dalmatian grape was identical to Primitivo and Zinfandel. Convinced that this varietal marked the beginning of Zinfandel, she proclaimed the beloved Zin the “ZPC variety,” or the Zinfandel/Primitivo/ Crljenak Kaštelanski varietal.
Imagine that title on the label of your next wine bottle! Meredith may have uncovered some of the mystery surrounding Zin, but her speculations did not solve the matter of naming the varietal. The term Zinfandel was too steeped into the history of American red wine. Zinfandel standing as one of the second most popular varieties to come from Califorina, second only to Cabernet Sauvignon, it is not hard to understand why some Italian wine makers wanted in on the name as well. With their Primitivo grape the same as the Zinfandel, what’s really in a name? Some say the term speaks more to an American culture and for Italy to use the name steals that piece of American history. While the debate continues, it is important not to overlook the most important matter: the sheer quality of Zinfandel, call it Primitivo, Zin or Crljenak Kaštelanski.
While the Californian wine industry leads the debate about Zin’s history, the grape has traveled further north and now flourishes closer to our home. Zin, a bit finicky, prefers warm weather and little travel. Forcing this grape to endure long hauls on the road risks arriving with a rotten supply. So, some people doubted the possibility of producing this delectably peppery and fruity wine in the wet state of Oregon. That is until the discovery of the growing potential here in the Columbia Valley where we benefit from diverse micro climates including dry desert. Coupling the passion of our Californian wine maker, Michael Sebastiani, and the potential of the Columbia Valley AVA, we proudly deliver our long revered and award winning Zinfandel. While we carry on the name Zinfandel, we keep in mind the important matter at hand; this is a truly delightful grape lending to some of the best red wines to come from this area.
Cheers!
Sarah Cullington
